Goodbye Ireland, Hello Wales

We recently left Ireland, the land of amazing dairy (creating equally great lattes), and set off to the UK starting in Caernarfon, Wales. I still don’t completely know how to pronounce that city’s name- Welsh is proving very difficult. Take a look at this town’s name we saw as we passed on the train!

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Literally did not even get the entire name in  my photo it is SO long!

It was truly a unique time to be in Ireland because this year marks the 100th year since their fight for freedom during the Irish Revolution. We saw this anniversary, along with the excitement surrounding the Irish team’s (short lived) success in Euro 2016 celebrated through outpourings of Irish pride all over the south of the country, from larger towns like Dublin and Galway to more rural places like Kilkenny and Dingle.

The second half of our time in Ireland was my favorite; we spent it in more rural areas, soaking in the Irish countryside. Before visiting I imagined all of Ireland to be a crazy quilt of different green patches sewn together over rolling hills. Serine and breathtaking.

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Now that I’ve seen a bit of the country for myself, not Hollywood’s version, I realize there is a lot more to Ireland than that, but the “greenness” of everything still shocked me!

As I reflect on my visit here are a few quirky notes on Ireland of things that stood out to me as being different from the US. I broke them up, in no particular order, into “the good” which are the things I wish I could take back to the US with me and “the bad” which are things I’m happy to be leaving behind.

The Good:

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Farm fresh dinner from McSwiggan’s, voted the best in Galway

  • Kind, generous, American loving people (this is, of course, a generalization but what I personally experienced). A big shout out of thanks to all the patient bus drivers who helped us find our way
  • Excellent access to wifi in most places- Cork even had city wide wifi
  • Restaurants having a list of their suppliers on the menu (this way you know exactly where your meal is sourced from- what a concept)
  • Delicious food fresh off the farm
  • How amazingly green everything is
  • The crafts and music of local artists 

     

  • When you enter your hotel room, you place the key in a slot above the light switch for the lights to work (saving electricity by turning all lights off when you leave the room AND you never need to worry about loosing your keys)
  • How people were encouraged to pitch in to keep their city clean! Ireland even instituted a “Tidy Town” award that goes to the cleanest town
  • Tea everywhere at all times (with the best milk you’ll ever taste)
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    Tea time at Cupan Tae

     

The Bad:

  • Lots of smoking everywhere; we couldn’t really sit outside without being absorbed in a cloud of smoke
  • A downside to the charming windy streets is smelling the exhaust of cars just inches away from you
  • Few towels in hotels/b&bs, not a big deal, but a bummer if you have long hair to dry (aka no wash clothes or hand towels)
  • The bipolar weather- it’s not safe to go out without a raincoat and umbrella even if it’s sunny

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    Me hanging out with Fungi, Dingle’s resident dolphin

  • Old plumbing in most places had me questioning, will the toilet flush? Will there be enough water pressure to wash my hair?

 

I probably sound incredibly spoiled but this is so you all can be prepared when you visit and I can have a good laugh looking back at the thoughts of my younger self. Now I’m off to enjoy the beautiful Welsh seashore- expect more on Wales soon!

Irish Street Art

I’ve been finding really cool street art all over Ireland. In every town we’ve stopped in there have been quirky, random, sometimes beautiful pieces covering  the walls. No Banksy’s yet but UK here I come! Below are just a few I caught to share.

 

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Live Music in Ireland

I have been feeling so inspired by the live music performed in Ireland. On a nightly basis every pub on the street will have signs announcing their live music offerings. We happen to be in the right place at the right time last night and heard a really great couple perform. The woman performed violin and vocals and her husband played the accordion. For a taste of what I’m talking about, listen to the clips below- the first an upbeat jig, the second a ballad.

I love how so many people in Dingle, Ireland still know how to play an instrument. In the family we are staying with, all three children play the piano and the mother plays violin in a local orchestra. Reflecting on my own experience in the states, my only musical education (to my mother’s dismay) was playing the saxophone for one year as a middle school elective. Neither of my parents actively play an instrument, although both took lessons as children, and my sisters, who both took piano and guitar lessons growing up, chose not to continue with their practice. Very few of my friends play, though we all seem to have taken lessons of some sort as children. How come so few of us carry this practice through to adulthood? Whenever someone does bring a guitar to a group event everyone seems to enjoy it and joins in nodding their heads to the beat.

I think one contributing factor may have been the fact that electricity didn’t reach parts of the Dingle Peninsula until the late 1960s! Without television (which was adopted widely in the US in the 1950s) learning and playing music was a wonderful form of entertainment. And today, with a world of unlimited, personalized entertainment at our fingertips who takes the time or has the attention span to master an instrument. I applaud all of you who do!

So next time I go to turn on Netflix, I’ll need to stifle the internal guilt I feel for my lack of musical abilities, and maybe even browse for a good guitar teacher in the Bay Area while watching Orange is the New Black.

Headed South: Dublin to Cork

Since I last wrote in Dublin I’ve had the chance to explore 3 more Irish cities: Glendalough, Kilkenny and Cork. I want to share with you the highlight reel of my favorite moments in each of these places.

DUBLIN: 

  • The Book of Kells at Trintiy College- before seeing this library turned museum I had no appreciation for the work that went into making a book; with the technology we have today it goes largely unnoticed having no direct effect on my everyday life. Four scribes and 6 artists contributed to the making of this book, dyes were used from countless plants and other natural sources, 185 calf skins were used to make soft durable pages, and every stitch of the book’s binding was sewn by hand.

    Inside St. Patrick's Cathedral before sung service

    Inside St. Patrick’s Cathedral before sung service

  • Attending a sung service at St. Patrick’s Cathedral- As the choir sang evening light poured through the stained glass windows, glowing vibrant colors onto the stone walls of the cathedral. Truly an breathtaking sight.
  • Attending the Riverdance 21 performance (and walking out after to witness the Irish locals after their Euro 2016 win). We bought tickets spur the moment when passing by the Gaiety Theatre off of Grafton Street earlier the same day. That night at the show, in a theater that wouldn’t have even fit half of one of my largest lectures at Berkeley, I was amazed by traditional Irish dance! I had never seen it performed in a professional group like this before (I’d seen it once at a 5th grade talent show and once by a friend of my parents). The dancer’s feet moved like lightning and the live music (fiddle, concertina, clarinet, drums, and more traditional Irish instruments) was flawless. Through different scenes the show contrast traditional Irish dance to Russian folk dance, Spanish flamenco, and American tap dance showing the similarities and differences of each unique style.
  • Speaking to an Irish woman at a vintage tea shop- I need you to picture a pink haired, pierced face, short, grandma like Irish woman. We ran into her at this amazing vintage shop at the bottom of Smithfield Square (which also, conveniently had a small tea room). She told us her life travels and asked us all about ourselves and pointed us in the direction of Capel Street, another fun area with lots of charity shops and authentic Irish culture.
  • Getting lost and wandering way farther up O’Connell Street then we meant to- We ran into this magical basin park where there were literally tiny fairy houses built into the sides of the walls and trees. We also stumbled into a cafe named the Music Shop and were greeted at our table by the owner, Johnathan, a friendly man in a red velvet jacket who also owned the candy store on the corner and the Castle Hotel above the cafe. He was born and raised in Dublin and the third generation to run his family’s business. He discussed his upcoming wedding and his pride that Ireland had legalized his marriage to his partner. He asked us our feeling about Trump and the upcoming election and my mother hid her face in embarrassment.
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Beautiful buttercups

GLENDALOUGH (located in Wicklow National Park popularly known as the setting for the movies Braveheart, P.S. I Love You, & Leap Year):

  • Seeing yellow buttercup flowers- this was the first town I witnessed after Dublin and was a refreshing change from the city. Everything was in full bloom and these tiny yellow flowers scattered across grassy meadows really stood out!

    Mom & me at the lake in Glendalough!

    Mom & me at the lake in Glendalough!

  • Walking to the Upper Lake- Rain had been on and off all day but as soon as we reached the lake the wind and rain really picked up. Luckily equipped with rain coats and an umbrella (Yes we are tourists, but at least we are prepared tourists) we had a chance to watch the wind dramatically whipping the water before heading somewhere (ANYWHERE!) dry and warm. image
  • The Round Tower in the sacred monastic grounds- for safety the monks would go into the 110-foot-tall tower when the Vikings attacked. The door was located 12 feet off the ground, to be accessed only by ladder for protection.

KILKENNY:

  • Climbing the tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral- after being amazed by the tower in Glendalough I was ecstatic to learn there was a similar tower in this town that had access to the top! Though this round tower was only 100-foot-tall it was still quite the climb. I entered the narrow tower door by a ladder taking me to the door 12+ feet off the ground (did I mention it was raining again?), climbed 8+ more flights of wooden ladders inside the tower before reaching one last stone set of stairs to the top. I crawled out into the open air to take in the view- it was totally worth it! See the grand view of the countryside below.
  • Tasting at Smithwicks (pronounced smid-icks, I think, still not 100% sure
    Smithwicks

    Smithwicks

    given the strong accents)- their original red is on point and their staff friendlier then ever.

CORK: 

  • Witnessing everyone watching football (ie.soccer) in the streets- even the store keepers from across the way were standing at their doors peering to view the TV at the pub window. One man in his door kept frantically checking his watch as the game approached its end.
  • Visiting the English Market- opened in 1788 locals and tourists alike still enjoy this covered market and its variety of offerings- fresh vegetables, meats, herbs, breads, fruit, spices, and pastries. And (fun fact) apparently this was one of Queen Elizabeth II’s final stops on her most recent trip to Ireland.
  • Dinner at the Gourmet (Burger) Bistro- this tiny restaurant off of Bridge Street was a delicious find! Their award winning dishes use organic, locally grown ingredients, and they don’t change extra for changing a side of fries to a salad- win, win, win! Take a leaf out of their book American burger joints.

Now that you’re all caught up, time for bed! Five nights of sharing a room with my mom and I haven’t gone crazy yet (only joking mom)! Off early tomorrow to Ring of Kerry and Dingle, fingers crossed for sunny skies.

YUMMMM!

YUMMMM!

Photos: Delightful Dublin

From the people to the music, to the food, to the sights, Dublin exceeded my expectations! Here are a few of the best shots from the past few days.

The Adventure Begins: Dublin, Ireland

Today was the beginning of our international adventure and I’m happy to report everything went extremely smoothly! My mom and I landed safely in Dublin, Ireland after a pleasant experience with our airline, Aer Lingus. I need to go leave them a positive review immediately; we experienced friendly flight staff, efficient boarding, good food (for an airline), wide selection on entertainment, and our flight arrived 25 minutes early! We even had a row to ourselves, though that’s not exactly good news for the airline. Those who know me know I can sleep through anything, and won’t be surprised to hear I woke up across the world as we decended on scenic green landscapes after a sold 5 hour nap.

On the bus ride to our Airbnb we caught our first glimpse at the city- brightly colored buildings, Irish flags everywhere, cobble stone streets. It should be noted that buses are crazy here, I literally felt like I was on the Disneyland Indiana Jones ride!

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My first glimpse of Dublin from the top of a double decker bus.

Once we had time to settle in and freshen-up at our cozy Airbnb we set out to explore on foot while it was still daylight. We passed Christ Church and Dublin Castle (sites to be explored more indepth tomorrow) soaking in the city. We enjoyed locally crafted beer, my first on Irish soil, at the pub J.W. Sweetman. We wandered the Temple Bar district where some drunken locals asked if we were Spanish, then pronounced their love of Americans, making us feel right at home.

So far everyone has been extremely kind and welcoming. 9:30pm and still light out we stopped to enjoy some live Irish music and dance before heading back for some much needed rest. The purple and orange sky reflected on the water of the river as we walked home was beautiful beyond words. Looking forward to a full day tomorrow!

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Sunset at 10pm on the Liffey River.

Packing Light: My own personal hell

The most common piece of advice I received during the lead up to this trip was to PACK LIGHT! I can see how important this is because it will severely impact my flexibility during this trip- not being burdened down by a heavy pack or multiple bags will give me more freedom, especially on days when I don’t have a hostel locker or somewhere safe to store my belongings.

I had always intended to backpack, but after looking at the 36 liter pack I had planned to use back at my home in San Diego I was afraid that wasn’t going to cut it. After consulting the Internet it looked like for about 3 months a women of my size would be much more comfortable with a 40-45 liter pack. Borrowing a friends 40 liter pack and bringing an additional smaller day pack (my handy NorthFace that had done me so well for my 4 years at Berkeley) I had just enough room for my things plus room for souvenirs (#touristlife).

Below is a summary of what I’m bringing. Remember I’m new to this so it is in no way “correct,” but I’ll add additional notes about what I use/don’t use after  my trip along with my packing regrets and victories. Wish me luck!

What I packed for a 3 month trip.

What I packed for a 3 month trip to Europe during summer.

Clothes

  • 3 Pants/capris (2 workout, 1 pair of jeans)
  • 2 Shorts
  • 2 Short sleeve T-shirts
  • 4 Tank top shirts
  • 2 Blouses
  • 2 Sun dresses
  • 1 Long sleeve shirt
  • 2 Jackets (1 rain shell, 1 fleece)
  • 8 Socks (6 day wear, 2 heavyweight hiking)
  • 8 Underwear
  • 1 Bikini
  • 4 Shoes (dress sandal, hiking sandal, shower shoes & running shoe- not pictured)
  • 1 Scarf

Toiletries

  • toothbrush
  • tooth paste
  • dental floss
  • face wash
  • makeup
  • makeup remover
  • lotion
  • shampoo
  • conditioner
  • soap
  • tampons
  • hairbrush
  • quick dry towel
  • wash cloth
  • extra bags for laundry
  • vitamins, allergy medicine, etc.

Electronics/ Other

  • iPad w/ keyboard
  • iPhone
  • Canon Ti Rebel
  • ALL DEVICE CHARGERS!
  • Plug adapter
  • headphones
  • Travel books/maps
  • sketchbook
  • journal
  • pens

Am I forgetting anything? Have any packing tips? Leave a comment  below!

Where in the world should I go?

With finals and graduation quickly approaching I sat down to plan my post-grad travel plans. Like most college students, the art of procrastination has not been lost on me. How come it is always finals week when I feel the most inspired to do everything but study? The week leading up  to finals is always when I decide is the best time to work on long term projects like beginning a blog- practical stuff, all in no way relevant to my studies.

At this point I knew I would be traveling for most of my journey alone and was slightly concerned about safety and my lack of linguistic abilities when it came foreign languages. Though Duolingo is helping I still have a long way to go until I’m conversing with any locals on this trip. Though my friends and my bank account had been leaning towards South East Asia, my heart and my comfort zone said Western Europe was enough of a stretch. Baby steps.

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So many amazing destinations!!! (Photo courtesy of http://www.freelargeimages.com)

Once I had settled on a region- where to begin? What direction to head? South to North? West to East? I was overwhelmed by all of the options. I had complete freedom but it was petrifying me.

Developing an itinerary was an extremely difficult task (I know, I know, first world problems right?). At first 3 months sounded like forever and I assumed I’d easily be able to cover most of Western Europe- WRONG! Should I dive deep into one area or over a larger area more quickly? I debated doing a home stay program for a month in Italy, possibly working on an organic farm or helping a family improve their English. But I wasn’t sure if I was willing to constrain myself to working 5 days a week even if it would pay for my accommodations.

I received the news my mom would be joining for the first segment of this adventure and that gave me some direction. She was extremely interested in Ireland and the U.K., having a love for the culture and never having traveled there herself. She took on the lion’s share of planning the first few weeks- planning out her ideal trip. Our first stops were set- 10 days Southern Ireland, 10 days Wales and England, 4 days Paris, France. I had the ticket to Dublin, Ireland for June 20th in my hand (well on my computer)- progress had been made!

Next for planning the solo portion of this trip. I knew I wanted to meet my relatives in Germany and was highly interested in Italy given my Italian heritage, but I was still confused about how to approach deciding what path to take and linking together different means of transportation. I began researching train and bus passes after a family member recommended the Eurail Global Pass. It looked like a great option with access to 28 countries but was rather expensive and still didn’t provide the structure I was looking for. As I began reading other travel blogs to see how people in similar situations approached their search I discovered BusAbout. Their one-way, hop-on, hop-off trips through Europe provided what looked like the perfect balance of structure and flexibility. The “Go Roman” pass started in Paris (conveniently the same city my mom would be leaving from) and hit cities that excited me encompassing much of what I hoped to see in Europe, including the towns of my German relatives. Another benefit was that the bus pick-up and drop-off points were all at major hostels located near city centers, places I would most likely be spending many nights. That combined with an excellent discount and I was sold!

The Go Roman bus route I'll be taking- helping me take a huge leap in planning this trip.

The Go Roman bus route I’ll be taking- helping me take a huge leap in planning this trip.

For more details on where I will be when, please visit my itinerary page. Recommendations for must see attractions/hidden gems along my route, please leave a comment below!