Headed South: Dublin to Cork

Since I last wrote in Dublin I’ve had the chance to explore 3 more Irish cities: Glendalough, Kilkenny and Cork. I want to share with you the highlight reel of my favorite moments in each of these places.

DUBLIN: 

  • The Book of Kells at Trintiy College- before seeing this library turned museum I had no appreciation for the work that went into making a book; with the technology we have today it goes largely unnoticed having no direct effect on my everyday life. Four scribes and 6 artists contributed to the making of this book, dyes were used from countless plants and other natural sources, 185 calf skins were used to make soft durable pages, and every stitch of the book’s binding was sewn by hand.

    Inside St. Patrick's Cathedral before sung service

    Inside St. Patrick’s Cathedral before sung service

  • Attending a sung service at St. Patrick’s Cathedral- As the choir sang evening light poured through the stained glass windows, glowing vibrant colors onto the stone walls of the cathedral. Truly an breathtaking sight.
  • Attending the Riverdance 21 performance (and walking out after to witness the Irish locals after their Euro 2016 win). We bought tickets spur the moment when passing by the Gaiety Theatre off of Grafton Street earlier the same day. That night at the show, in a theater that wouldn’t have even fit half of one of my largest lectures at Berkeley, I was amazed by traditional Irish dance! I had never seen it performed in a professional group like this before (I’d seen it once at a 5th grade talent show and once by a friend of my parents). The dancer’s feet moved like lightning and the live music (fiddle, concertina, clarinet, drums, and more traditional Irish instruments) was flawless. Through different scenes the show contrast traditional Irish dance to Russian folk dance, Spanish flamenco, and American tap dance showing the similarities and differences of each unique style.
  • Speaking to an Irish woman at a vintage tea shop- I need you to picture a pink haired, pierced face, short, grandma like Irish woman. We ran into her at this amazing vintage shop at the bottom of Smithfield Square (which also, conveniently had a small tea room). She told us her life travels and asked us all about ourselves and pointed us in the direction of Capel Street, another fun area with lots of charity shops and authentic Irish culture.
  • Getting lost and wandering way farther up O’Connell Street then we meant to- We ran into this magical basin park where there were literally tiny fairy houses built into the sides of the walls and trees. We also stumbled into a cafe named the Music Shop and were greeted at our table by the owner, Johnathan, a friendly man in a red velvet jacket who also owned the candy store on the corner and the Castle Hotel above the cafe. He was born and raised in Dublin and the third generation to run his family’s business. He discussed his upcoming wedding and his pride that Ireland had legalized his marriage to his partner. He asked us our feeling about Trump and the upcoming election and my mother hid her face in embarrassment.
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Beautiful buttercups

GLENDALOUGH (located in Wicklow National Park popularly known as the setting for the movies Braveheart, P.S. I Love You, & Leap Year):

  • Seeing yellow buttercup flowers- this was the first town I witnessed after Dublin and was a refreshing change from the city. Everything was in full bloom and these tiny yellow flowers scattered across grassy meadows really stood out!

    Mom & me at the lake in Glendalough!

    Mom & me at the lake in Glendalough!

  • Walking to the Upper Lake- Rain had been on and off all day but as soon as we reached the lake the wind and rain really picked up. Luckily equipped with rain coats and an umbrella (Yes we are tourists, but at least we are prepared tourists) we had a chance to watch the wind dramatically whipping the water before heading somewhere (ANYWHERE!) dry and warm. image
  • The Round Tower in the sacred monastic grounds- for safety the monks would go into the 110-foot-tall tower when the Vikings attacked. The door was located 12 feet off the ground, to be accessed only by ladder for protection.

KILKENNY:

  • Climbing the tower at St. Canice’s Cathedral- after being amazed by the tower in Glendalough I was ecstatic to learn there was a similar tower in this town that had access to the top! Though this round tower was only 100-foot-tall it was still quite the climb. I entered the narrow tower door by a ladder taking me to the door 12+ feet off the ground (did I mention it was raining again?), climbed 8+ more flights of wooden ladders inside the tower before reaching one last stone set of stairs to the top. I crawled out into the open air to take in the view- it was totally worth it! See the grand view of the countryside below.
  • Tasting at Smithwicks (pronounced smid-icks, I think, still not 100% sure
    Smithwicks

    Smithwicks

    given the strong accents)- their original red is on point and their staff friendlier then ever.

CORK: 

  • Witnessing everyone watching football (ie.soccer) in the streets- even the store keepers from across the way were standing at their doors peering to view the TV at the pub window. One man in his door kept frantically checking his watch as the game approached its end.
  • Visiting the English Market- opened in 1788 locals and tourists alike still enjoy this covered market and its variety of offerings- fresh vegetables, meats, herbs, breads, fruit, spices, and pastries. And (fun fact) apparently this was one of Queen Elizabeth II’s final stops on her most recent trip to Ireland.
  • Dinner at the Gourmet (Burger) Bistro- this tiny restaurant off of Bridge Street was a delicious find! Their award winning dishes use organic, locally grown ingredients, and they don’t change extra for changing a side of fries to a salad- win, win, win! Take a leaf out of their book American burger joints.

Now that you’re all caught up, time for bed! Five nights of sharing a room with my mom and I haven’t gone crazy yet (only joking mom)! Off early tomorrow to Ring of Kerry and Dingle, fingers crossed for sunny skies.

YUMMMM!

YUMMMM!

Photos: Delightful Dublin

From the people to the music, to the food, to the sights, Dublin exceeded my expectations! Here are a few of the best shots from the past few days.

The Adventure Begins: Dublin, Ireland

Today was the beginning of our international adventure and I’m happy to report everything went extremely smoothly! My mom and I landed safely in Dublin, Ireland after a pleasant experience with our airline, Aer Lingus. I need to go leave them a positive review immediately; we experienced friendly flight staff, efficient boarding, good food (for an airline), wide selection on entertainment, and our flight arrived 25 minutes early! We even had a row to ourselves, though that’s not exactly good news for the airline. Those who know me know I can sleep through anything, and won’t be surprised to hear I woke up across the world as we decended on scenic green landscapes after a sold 5 hour nap.

On the bus ride to our Airbnb we caught our first glimpse at the city- brightly colored buildings, Irish flags everywhere, cobble stone streets. It should be noted that buses are crazy here, I literally felt like I was on the Disneyland Indiana Jones ride!

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My first glimpse of Dublin from the top of a double decker bus.

Once we had time to settle in and freshen-up at our cozy Airbnb we set out to explore on foot while it was still daylight. We passed Christ Church and Dublin Castle (sites to be explored more indepth tomorrow) soaking in the city. We enjoyed locally crafted beer, my first on Irish soil, at the pub J.W. Sweetman. We wandered the Temple Bar district where some drunken locals asked if we were Spanish, then pronounced their love of Americans, making us feel right at home.

So far everyone has been extremely kind and welcoming. 9:30pm and still light out we stopped to enjoy some live Irish music and dance before heading back for some much needed rest. The purple and orange sky reflected on the water of the river as we walked home was beautiful beyond words. Looking forward to a full day tomorrow!

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Sunset at 10pm on the Liffey River.